Pretty Town Miltenberg’s Half-timbered Houses: A Feast for the Eyes

An hour’s drive from Frankfurt am Main reveals the pretty town of Miltenberg. Situated on the left bank of the Main River, between the Spessart and Odenwald ranges, Miltenberg’s old town is a treasure trove of charming half-timbered houses dating from the 15th to the 18th centuries.

The old town of Miltenberg, Germany is a place where it’s easy to spend an entire day exploring. As I strolled through, enjoying the charming architecture and absorbing the lively atmosphere, I couldn’t resist stopping at a cozy restaurant to taste the local cuisine. The town’s picturesque streets and historic buildings provide a delightful backdrop for exploration. Miltenberg’s natural beauty and culinary delights captured my heart, and I wholeheartedly recommend this gem for anyone exploring the region.

The heart of Miltenberg beats along its vibrant Hauptstraße, stretching between the Mainzer Tor and Würzburger Tor city gates. This bustling street is a treasure trove of the town’s attractions. Join me on a journey to discover the pretty town of Miltenberg in Bavaria:

• Exploring Schwarzviertel (Black Quarter)
• Schnatterloch: A Charming Market Square
• Discovering Engelplatz
• Climbing up Miltenberg Castle
• Walking the River Promenade

Exploring Schwarzviertel (Black Quarter)

Beginning my walking exploration of Miltenberg, I headed towards the Schwarzviertel (Black Quarter) located at the intersection of Mainzer Street and Hauptstraße. This old district, lining the narrow Hauptstraße, showcases an array of half-timbered houses. The name “Black Quarter” (Schwarzviertel) comes from the hill’s shadow, which envelops the area, particularly during winter, making it challenging for the sun to illuminate the ground.

A building that really captured my attention in the Black Quarter was the Alte Bannhaus, constructed with distinctive red bricks. This place had a fascinating history – once a customs building, it later transformed into a municipal prison from the 19th to the early 20th century. Right beside it stands the Brauhaus Faust brewery, crafting some remarkable Faust beer specialties. Fun fact: their Eisbock has won the World Beer Cup twice! If you’re around on weekends, you can even take a tour inside the brewery. Cheers to that!

As I wrapped up my stroll through the Schwarzviertel, I stumbled upon St. Jakobus Church. Those neoclassical towers, standing tall since 1830, truly command the city skyline and even catch the eye from the Miltenberg Castle hill.

Schnatterloch: A Charming Market Square

While the heart of the city beats in the old market square with its iconic fountain, the true highlight of the area is the magnificent half-timbered houses with their slanted floors and tilting walls.

You might be familiar with the renowned German Half-Timbered House Route, connecting over 100 medieval towns adorned with these unique structures. Despite being timber-framed, the architectural styles vary across regions, like the colorful walls between beams in Quedlinburg. In Miltenberg, most half-timbered buildings feature dark red or brown beams, giving each town its distinctive charm.

Other noteworthy buildings include the Schnatterloch tower, the Renaissance archway at the entrance to the castle, and the Renaissance fountain. Together, these historic buildings form a magical ensemble, and are some of the most photographed views in Germany.

One of the main half-timbered house buildings in the old market square is the Museum Stadt Miltenberg (city museum, Hauptstraße 169 – 175). While it may not be as attractive as the other half-timbered buildings, the museum houses a rich collection of treasures, and special exhibitions.

Discovering Engelplatz

Continuing along the Hauptstraße, the half-timbered houses exuded a quaint charm. Each shop and bakery on the ground floor added to the lively atmosphere. Approaching Engelplatz, the Old Town Hall’s red limestone structure, now a vibrant event venue, carried echoes of past floods in its marked façade.

At the intersection of Hauptstraße and Riesengasse stands Zum Riesen, a renowned hotel proudly asserting itself as Germany’s oldest princely hostel. Hosting historical figures, it features a restaurant offering Franconian cuisine and beer from Schwarzviertel’s Brauhaus Faust. Booking a room in this historic hotel is conveniently available online.

The Engelplatz derives its name from the Zum Engel hotel, integrated into the town hall building. Inside the town hall, you’ll find the Tourist Information office. The staff there were exceptionally friendly and helpful, providing me with a city map and addressing my questions regarding guided tours, accommodation, and excursion suggestions. They also offer tourist information in English. Moreover, there’s a public toilet available inside the building.

Right across from the town hall, you’ll find the Franziskaner Klosterkirche church. The Franciscans settled in the city in 1630, initially residing in the hospital. However, due to the upheavals of the Thirty Years’ War, the construction of the church got delayed until 1660. The church was eventually completed in 1667, showcasing a central portal gifted by the Archbishop of Mainz, Johann Philipp von Schönborn, and boasting a breathtaking Baroque interior design.

Climbing up Miltenberg Castle

Just behind the town hall, at the corner of Burgweg street, stands the Evangelical church erected in 1897. It’s a gem worth exploring, not just for its architectural style and choice of materials, but also for its strikingly vibrant windows adorned with depictions from the Bible.

Strolling along Burweg is a peaceful journey beside the old city wall. As I walked, the compact Jewish Cemetery on the left caught my eye, nestled close to the wall. Within a few minutes, I found myself at Miltenberg Castle.

Miltenburg Castle, constructed in 1150 under King Konrad III, took on its present look during the 16th century. Over the 19th and 20th centuries, the castle exchanged owners, underwent partial expansion, and modernized parts of its complex.

In 1979, the pretty town of Miltenberg in Bavaria took ownership of the castle. Following substantial renovations, Miltenberg Castle reopened its doors to the public. The castle’s museum now features a captivating collection, showcasing both ancient icons from the 17th to 19th centuries (including Russian and Greek pieces) and contemporary art.

As the castle was undergoing renovations, I decided to skip the interior exploration. Instead, I relished the breathtaking view over the Main valley and the town. It’s the perfect spot to capture the picturesque scene with St. Jakobus church towers, the bridge, the Main River, and the old town!

Walking the River Promenade

From the castle, I strolled back to Schnatterloch and Schulstraße, making my way to the Main River promenade. The new path offers a charming route along the Main, featuring two levels—a higher paved terrace providing a scenic view and a lower open space by the river connected with stairs and ramps.

For flood protection, a 2.20-meter-high concrete wall with sandstone cladding on both sides is in place, addressing historical flood concerns. At street level, the wall is only 0.9 meters high, and the uniform color of Miltenberg sandstone accentuates the unique shape of the flood protection.

I wandered along the river, discovering the quirky pink sandstone fountain known as Staffelbrunserbrunnen (The Stair Piddlers’ Fountain) depicting three men in a peculiar pose. Upon further investigation, I found that the fountain illustrates the challenges of defecating during a flood.

Travel tips for the pretty town Miltenberg in Bavaria

Where to stay

Some of the hotels in the pretty town Miltenberg in Bavaria feature on-site restaurants and convenient locations. For instance:

• Schmuckkästchen: a hotel with a wine house located at the Old Market Square (Schnatterloch)
• Zum Riesen: the aforementioned old hotel located in the heart of the old town

How to get there

For those keen on exploring nearby villages like Michelstadt, a charming town with numerous historical sites and half-timbered houses, I’d suggest renting a car for added freedom and convenience. If you’re traveling from Frankfurt, the optimal route involves taking Highway A3 towards Wurzburg/Aschaffenburg and then transitioning to B469 towards Miltenberg at the Aschaffenburg-Stockstadt exit. The journey takes approximately one hour, and there are ample paid parking spaces along the Main River.

Alternatively, if you prefer public transport, the Miltenberg Train Station is approximately one kilometre from the old town centre. If you opt for IC (Inter City) or ICE (Inter City Express) trains, you’ll need to change trains in Aschaffenburg. RE (Regional Express) trains or RB (Regional trains) are also available. Please check the connections on the DB Bahn. The train ride takes about one and a half hours.