Portovenere in Liguria is located close to the famous Cinque Terre, yet remains a lesser-known gem. Despite its relative quietness, its stunning landscape, colourful buildings, picturesque harbour, and charming labyrinthine streets make it a fantastic holiday destination. Even during the summer season, the town remains pleasantly peaceful, with fewer tourists compared to its more popular neighbours.


Portovenere may not be particularly large, but most of its attractions are within walking distance, making it easy to explore in just a few hours. However, after reading my post, you might just find yourself tempted to stay for a couple of days. Below are the highlights of our visit:
- A Leisurely Stroll Along the Charming Promenade
- San Pietro Church: Perched on the Rocks
- The Romantic Lord Byron’s Grotto
- The Doria Castle on the Hilltop
- Church of San Lorenzo and the Legend of the Madonna Bianca
- Wandering Through the Picturesque Labyrinth of Alleys
- Enjoying Lunch at a Seafront Café or Restaurant
- Refreshing Swim in the Sea
A Leisurely Stroll Along the Charming Promenade
A stroll along Via Olivo is a must, offering stunning views of the characteristic buildings and Palmaria Island across the Le Bocche channel. The houses, which are tightly packed together, form a vibrant, colourful wall that stretches high into the sky—some buildings rising as high as six stories. While they may look like charming seaside homes, these iconic structures were originally built as a defensive measure, serving as a fortress to protect the town and its castle.
San Pietro Church: Perched on the Rocks
At the end of the promenade stands the Church of San Pietro, perched gracefully atop the rocks. Built in 1256, this Catholic church blends Gothic and Romanesque styles, offering a simple yet charming appearance. Inside, you’ll find a statue of Saint Peter and a beautifully decorated door that adds to its character. Below the church, there’s a cosy restaurant with only a few tables, offering panoramic views of the ocean, the coastline, and the harbour. It was the perfect spot for a peaceful visit, soaking in both the history and the stunning scenery.


The Romantic Lord Byron’s Grotto
From San Pietro Church, we made our way back towards Doria Castle, passing a rustic door on the left-hand side. Stepping through the door, we found ourselves at an observation deck overlooking Byron’s Grotto and the stunning Bay of Poets in Portovenere in Liguria. The English poet Byron was deeply fond of this bay, using it as his favourite spot for meditation and relaxation. He stayed here often and swam across the bay to visit fellow poet Shelley, a remarkable distance in the sea.
On this particular sunny and clear day, the sea shimmered in a vibrant aqua blue, and many locals were soaking up the sun at the cave. A group of people were even learning to scuba dive nearby. However, on windy days, when the waves crash against the rocks, it can become dangerous to swim in these waters.
The Doria Castle on the Hilltop
After visiting the observation deck, we followed a narrow, steep stairway that led us up to the hill where Doria Castle stands, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the Bay of Poets and the Church of San Pietro. On a sunny day, it would be the perfect spot for a peaceful picnic, surrounded by the stunning scenery.
The castle itself sits atop a rocky plateau, its steep walls and impressive archways crafted from local stone. Built in the 13th century, this majestic fortress once held a crucial strategic role during the Republic of Genoa. It served as both a symbol of power and a stronghold of defence. The views from here are truly unforgettable, making it an absolute must-see for anyone visiting Portovenere.
Church of San Lorenzo and the Legend of the Madonna Bianca
The stunning Church of San Lorenzo stands proudly next to Doria Castle. Also known as the Sanctuary of the Madonna Bianca, the church honours the town’s patron saint and is home to a legendary painting of her. Built between 1118 and 1130, the church exudes a timeless charm that makes it an unforgettable sight to visit. Its historic significance and serene atmosphere add to the beauty of Portovenere, making it a must-see for anyone exploring the area.


Wandering Through the Picturesque Labyrinth of Alleys
The stairs in front of San Lorenzo lead down the hill into a labyrinth of picturesque alleys in Portovenere, Liguria. The upper part of this area is primarily residential, and tucked away between the narrow lanes are cosy courtyards where locals can unwind. It’s definitely worth getting lost in these charming alleys and stairways, as each turn reveals something new and delightful.
The alleys eventually lead to the pedestrian-only street Via Giovanni Capellini. This street is home to many of the village’s shops, ranging from artisan craft stores to food shops offering local delicacies, including delicious homemade pesto. As I wandered through, I came across many high-quality, made-in-Italy products, each more impressive than the last. It’s no wonder these shops are a favourite stop for VIPs passing through. At the end of this winding cobblestone path, you’ll find the town gate, the perfect ending to a delightful stroll.



Enjoying Lunch at a Seafront Café or Restaurant
We were feeling hot and sweaty, longing for a rest at a seafront café or restaurant where we could relax. Along the waterfront, there are a handful of charming eateries serving pizzas, seafood, and meat dishes. We decided to settle at one of these and enjoyed some delicious pizzas, one of which featured pesto sauce – a classic in Ligurian cuisine.
As we dined, we watched the fishing boats gently bobbing on the water, with the world passing by around us. It was such a peaceful scene that we found ourselves wishing time would slow down, allowing us to savour the moment just a little longer.
Refreshing Swim in the Sea
After our lunch break, we couldn’t wait to take a refreshing swim in the sea. The seaside near the car park at Via Olivo is quite calm, with a designated swimming area that we were eager to enjoy. The water was warmer than we expected, and only a few children were splashing about. The beach has a rocky section, so we had to be cautious when entering the water, as the stony ground was quite slippery.
In the afternoon, the beach clubs were relatively empty, though, according to the signs outside, all facilities were fully booked. It seemed many Italians had gone home for their afternoon break, a common tradition in the region.


Travel tips for Portovenere in Liguria
Island Hopping Near Portovenere: Tino, Tinetto, and Isola Palmaria
If you’re looking to explore further, I suggest taking a trip to the three islands – Tino, Tinetto, and Isola Palmaria – just off the Portovenere coastline. Tino is a military island, while Tinetto is a tiny rock with some ancient ruins. Isola Palmaria, the largest of the three, is perfect for a day out, with its caves, beaches, and scenic walking paths. In the summertime, you can easily reach the islands by either taking a scenic boat tour or hopping on a taxi boat.
How to get there
Bus 11/P from La Spezia train station is the most affordable way to reach in Portovenere in Liguria. It’s a simple and budget-friendly option.
Alternatively, you can travel by boat from La Spezia, Levanto, or Cinque Terre to Portovenere. While a boat tour offers beautiful views, it can be quite time-consuming. If you’re short on time, you might want to consider other transport options.
The quickest and most convenient way is by car. However, do bear in mind that the road to Portovenere is narrow and winding, so it may not be the best choice for those who are less experienced with driving on such roads.



Oh my goodness! Portovenere looks absolutely perfect! Definitely going on the bucket list. Thanks for the great tips!
Portovenere looks like an awesome place to visit. I haven’t been to Cinque Terre yet, but heard so much about it last year when we were in Italy that we know we want to go back. And now, I’ve added Portovenere to our must see list (which is already too long – I’m sure you understand that!)
Hi Stacy,
Thanks. Just another hint if you travel to that area, you could just pick two villages from Cinque Terre plus Portovenere. The 5 villages have more or less certain similarities. It is better to stay in the area for a day or two so that you won’t get stressed out. Happy traveling!