Ravello, a City of Music with the Famous View Over the Amalfi Coast

Located just a few kilometres east of the graceful town of Amalfi, Ravello boasts a rich history dating back to the 5th century. Initially established as a refuge against Barbarian invasions following the fall of the Roman Empire, Ravello later flourished as a key port in the Maritime Republic of Amalfi during the 9th century. The inhabitants were involved in maritime trade with the Orient, and that gave Ravello both wealth and status. The prosperity of this era manifested in the construction of grand castles, villas, churches, and civic buildings that showcased their affluence.

Today, perched in the hills overlooking the Amalfi coast, Ravello is home to many famous buildings like Villa Cimbrone, Villa Rufolo, and the architecturally striking Oscar Niemeyer Auditorium. What makes Ravello known to the outside is the Ravello Festival and its concert society, which gives Ravello the name “The City of the Music”.

A while back, a photo of Ravello’s picturesque landscape on the Amalfi Coast caught my eye. The enchanting mountaintop setting and the remarkable coastal scenery etched themselves into my memory. Fast forward to our family’s 7-day sojourn along the Amalfi Coast, and I finally had the opportunity to explore Ravello. Allocating a dedicated day to Ravello, we eagerly anticipated the highlights of our visit:

• Admiring the Coastal Splendor of Oscar Niemeyer Auditorium
• Taking in the Unique Amalfi Coastal Vistas from Villa Rufolo
• Enjoying a Lunch at the Garden Restaurant
• Observing the Bustle of Crowds in Piazza Duomo
• Exploring Ravello’s Hidden Neighborhoods

Admiring the Coastal Splendor of Oscar Niemeyer Auditorium

We followed the parking sign and parked our car inside a building. The parking place was spacious and not even full on that day.

Stepping out of the parking lot, the joyful coastline view lay just in front of us. The sea was calm, and soft clouds leisurely drifted across the blue sky.

Below us, Minori, the uncrowded seaside town, had terraced gardens climbing the rugged hillsides, along with a pleasant seafront featuring a wide cove.

Adjacent to the pedestrian walkway, we saw this enormous building, the Oscar Niemeyer Auditorium, designed and named after the Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. The architecture of the building presents a seamless curved line resembling a sleeping beauty. Today, the “Oscar Niemeyer” Auditorium serves as the setting for the Ravello Festival.

Taking in the Unique Amalfi Coastal Vistas from Villa Rufolo

Following Via della Repubblica and passing through a tunnel, where most buses and taxis halted, the elegant and magnificent Villa Rufolo emerged behind the tunnel on the left side. To explore Villa Rufolo, you can either participate in a Ravello private walking tour or purchase tickets on-site..

The key attractions of Villa Rufolo include the Entrance Tower, the Main Tower, the terraces, the Moorish-style cloister surrounded by columns, and the most breathtaking view of the Amalfi Coast. As I strolled through the gardens, I found myself unable to resist capturing numerous pictures, including one that had etched itself into my memory..

Numerous quiet corners with benches offered a relaxing atmosphere. The upper terrace gardens contained cypress trees, yuccas, and palms. I could easily envision how this place had inspired the German composer Richard Wagner to compose the second act of his final opera, Parsifal. Since 1952, the Ravello Music Festival, an open-air concert honoring Wagner, has been held in Villa Rufolo every summer.

Enjoying a Lunch at the Garden Restaurant

After spending several hours in the Villa Rufolo, our stomachs began to growl. Exiting Villa Rufolo, we found ourselves in the main square of Ravello, where almost every restaurant was full.

Opting to head back towards the tunnel, we settled on dining at the Garden Restaurant affiliated with a hotel. This establishment, more of a bar than a traditional restaurant, offered simple fare complemented by an extensive selection of beverages.

While the food might not have been budget-friendly, the panoramic view of the coast was truly impressive. Ravello felt like a natural balcony, perched above the Amalfi coast. As I sipped a glass of wine and enjoyed a plate of salad, I could feel the relaxation setting in, all against the backdrop of the serene, silk-blue sea.

Observing the Bustle of Crowds in Piazza Duomo

As in many European towns, the spiritual and social center of Ravello revolve around its Duomo, the Cathedral of Ravello. Established in 1086, the Rufolo family played a pivotal role in supporting the church’s construction. This Arabic-inspired sanctuary seamlessly blended Baroque and Romanesque styles, with a bell tower reflecting Moorish and Byzantine influences.

While the exterior may not immediately strike as extraordinary, a closer inspection reveals numerous distinctive features. Six spiraled columns, supported by marble lions, uphold the central nave, all made from sculpted white marble.

Another attraction is the two-room museum, accessible via a side entrance on Via Richard Wagner. The collection of the museum features marble busts and slabs decorated with mosaics.

The square in front of the cathedral buzzes with restaurants and shops showcasing local products. One snack bar, named “Klingsor” in homage to Richard Wagner, caught our attention. Despite the charm of the square, we decided to venture into the quieter streets of Ravello’s neighbourhood after a brief stay.

Exploring Ravello’s Hidden Neighborhoods

Following Via S. Francesco behind Hotel Rufolo, we walked to the backstreets of Ravello. As we passed under an arched walkway, a charming church (Chiesa S.Francesco dei Frati Minori Conventuali) caught our attention on the right.

Winding through the narrow street, exclusively reserved for pedestrians, we discovered more restaurants, bars, and hotels lining the way. Cats lounged lazily on the ground, atop walls, and in quiet corners, seemingly outnumbering the discernible tourists..

Our journey led us to Via Santa Chiara, a picturesque pedestrian path offering panoramic views and guiding us to another renowned site, Villa Cimbrone. Along the way, we saw a farm cultivating organic produce. To my surprise, I spotted Loofah, a vegetable reminiscent of my childhood. I recalled my grandfather cultivating Loofah on our rooftop balcony, where it would grow long vines, forming a natural sunshade. Once ripened, the vegetable’s fibrous texture resembled a scrubbing sponge, often used for bathroom cleaning.

A sign indicating “1500 steps to Atrani” attracted us, but as it wasn’t part of our planned itinerary, we turned back, following Via Santissma Trinita. This street had several hotels, and we noticed the unique feature of some streets having two parts: one with a flat slope and the other with stairs. The flat section served as a passage for narrow carts used by local hotels to transport goods and luggage. 

Via Santissma Trinita intersected with Via S. Francesco and Via Dei Rufolo, guiding us back to the central square.

Travel tips

Where to stay

Other than Amalfi or Salerno, Ravello proves to be an ideal hub for exploring the Amalfi Coast. All hotels are conveniently situated within walking distance from the centre.

How to get there

• Hop on the SITA buses from Salerno, Positano, or Sorrento, and disembark at Amalfi. Then, switch to another SITA bus to reach Ravello. Alternatively, take a leisurely walk up the hill to Ravello.
• Navigate the main highways in this region, including SS145, SS163, and SS373. If coming from Atrani, follow Via Castiglione to reach Ravello.