Nocelle, a tiny, still relatively isolated mountain village, sits around 443 meters above Positano. It is the highest and oldest village of Positano. Nocelle is a tourist destination not only known for the mountain Lattari but also the Path of the Gods. It is the start and endpoint of the scenic Path of the Gods (a trail between Bomerano and Nocelle). Besides, the small mountain village provides stunning vistas of the coastline. As our family always likes to explore the hidden corners without all the touristic hustle and bustle, Nocelle became the must-see place during our Amalfi Coast trip.
The road to Nocelle is narrow with sharp curves. At several places where the repair work of the streets was going on, the driving situation turned out to be a nightmare. From Positano, followed by Via Monsignor Vito Talamo, passed another mountain village Montepertuso, we drove further up and arrived at the small parking lot of Nocelle. The parking lot wasn’t full. It costs two Euros per hour.
Start the Nocelle round walk
At the parking lot, we tried to orient ourselves. The big map shows several hiking trails (including the Path of the Gods) around the Nocelle. And, two big information boards display the hotel information. A sign “Croce di Nocelle” on the wall shows the way to the village centre. After a few stone steps up the hill, we turned left and continued followed the Via Cercola.
Soon we reached a small flat area where an information board shows the bus stop and the directions to several hotels. It also indicates the direction of the famous hiking trail Path of the Gods. That was the first place to observe panoramic views of the Amalfi Coast area. The morning mist that obscured the views of the sea was moving away. The white clouds moved in from the Lattari mountain area. And, the winding Amalfi Coast came into sight. Beneath the mountain, we could see Positano clearly.
Looking around, many rustic stone ways lead to all directions. We simply followed the same road and walked towards the centre and coastal direction. In some areas, farmers grow vines on terraces carved into the hillside. Other areas are covered with colourful wildflowers and long grass. This part of the village has only a few houses around. It was so peaceful and silent.
We took our time to wander around the stone ways and immerse ourselves into the heavenly beauty of this remote mountain village. The street Via Cercola goes on and ends in the village centre, where we saw the restaurant Rifugio Dei Mele (Via Cercole 1, Nocelle Positano 84017). Being thirsty and tired, we rushed in for a break.
The restaurant Rifugio Dei Mele with spectacular views
The restaurant looked quite new and has a modern ambient. The drinks weren’t so expensive, but the food does. It wasn’t dinner time yet, so we just ordered a few drinks. Surprisingly, the restaurant has spectacular views over the Amalfi Coast.
Big parasols partially covered the terrace outside. Some people, dress up elegantly, were still having their late lunch. The terrace towards the coastal side features white cast-iron railings with the simple architectural details. I leaned against the railing. Before me, it was the spectacular coastal view of the endless ocean. The sky was already clear, and I took full advantage of the healthy ocean air. The panoramic terrace has such a fabulous ocean view.
The white open-air bar is at the edge of the terrace. Its position gave us the impression that it merged into the ocean and sky with no boundary. Could I call it an infinity bar?
Complete the round walk
The restaurant is in the main residential area. Occasionally, we saw several locals walked by. More restaurants and bars are nearby. Several hotels are also in this area, such as Casa Cuccaro and Villa La Quercia. The most attractive villa we have discovered is a Villa Degli Dei Luxury House, which has 3 floors, 5 rooms, 1 kitchen, an infinity swimming pool, and a dominant landscape!
It is not difficult to find those hotels because an information board clearly indicates their directions. Followed the Via Capella and after a leisurely stroll through the main part of the town, we saw a lonely mini market. It is so small like someone’s garden house and only sells some basic daily stuff. Near the mini market, there is a sign showing the path to the village Montepertuso. But we decided to be back in the parking lot instead.
The elevated mountain village has unbelievable scenery. It is a world apart from touristy Positano, but a silent place where we hope it always keeps it that way. Being part of Positano, the village is one of our absolute highlights during our time in the Amalfi Coast. Nocelle commands some of the most spectacular views on the entire coast.
How to get there
Mobility Amalfi Coast Bus departs for Nocelle from the center of Positano every hour. Due to the traffic and other situations, the bus schedule doesn’t promise you the exact time, when the bus will arrive. The time table just tells you that a bus will arrive around that time.
Or, follow a massive 1,500-step staircase that starts from the village Arienzo (around one kilometer away from Positano) and ascend up to Nocelle.
Alternatively, you can hike from Bomerano (Agerola) to Nocelle by joining a group tour in Ravello.
Where to stay
Nocelle features some Bed & Breakfast accommodations. Compared to the hotels in Positano, the hotels offer more acceptable prices. Apart from that, most hotels in Nocelle have gorgeous views over the Amalfi Coast. Some views there are out of the world! Other than the above mentioned Villa Degli Dei Luxury House, Maison Rosa is a good choice.
Maison Rosa is an apartment featuring air-conditioned accommodation with a private pool, pool view and a balcony. It has a garden, barbecue facilities, garden views and free WiFi throughout the property. Restaurants nearby have equally magic views.
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